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		<title>Why on Global Infrared Heating Experts</title>
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				<title>Why glass cracks in annealing</title>
				<link>http://global-ir-heater.com/en/posts/why-glass-cracks-in-annealing/</link>
				<pubDate>Sat, 18 Jul 2026 02:28:28 +0800</pubDate>
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				<description>&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&#34;http://global-ir-heater.com/images/de51387667ace2164209b43f1462b665.png&#34; alt=&#34;Why glass cracks in annealing&#34;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1 id=&#34;dealing-with-cold-spots-in-glass-annealing&#34;&gt;Dealing with Cold Spots in Glass Annealing&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ever had a piece of glassware just… snap? You did everything right, but a flask or a custom vessel still cracked during annealing. It’s frustrating. Usually, it happens because the glass didn&amp;rsquo;t cool down evenly, leaving internal stresses that eventually rip the piece apart.&#xA;The real culprit is often &amp;ldquo;dead zones.&amp;rdquo; If you&amp;rsquo;re using a standard convection oven, the hot air has to actually &lt;em&gt;touch&lt;/em&gt; the glass to work. But with complex shapes, the geometry of the piece blocks the airflow. You end up with cold spots in the &lt;a href=&#34;https://o-yate.com&#34;&gt;nooks&lt;/a&gt; and crannies &lt;a href=&#34;https://goldisgood.com&#34;&gt;where&lt;/a&gt; the air can&amp;rsquo;t reach.&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Enter IR lamps.&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Instead of relying on air, we use shortwave infrared radiation. Think of it like sunlight hitting your skin—it doesn&amp;rsquo;t need a breeze to feel warm. IR travels in a &lt;a href=&#34;https://henruite.com&#34;&gt;straight&lt;/a&gt; line and sinks right into the glass. By setting up a multi-angle array of lamps, we can basically &amp;ldquo;shoot&amp;rdquo; heat into those hidden curves that air just ignores. It keeps the whole piece above its strain point, no &lt;a href=&#34;https://o-yate.net&#34;&gt;matter&lt;/a&gt; how weird the shape is.&#xA;Now, you can&amp;rsquo;t just throw any bulb in there. We usually go with quartz halogen tubes. Quartz is the way to go because it doesn&amp;rsquo;t warp under extreme heat, and the halogen cycle keeps the filament from burning out too quickly.&#xA;But here is the tricky part: you have to match the wattage to the mass of the glass. If you go too high, you&amp;rsquo;ll ramp up the heat fast—which sounds great—but you risk creating &amp;ldquo;hot spots.&amp;rdquo; If one area gets too toasted while another is still cool, you&amp;rsquo;ve just created the exact same stress you were trying to fix. It&amp;rsquo;s a balancing act.&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;The reality check.&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;IR heating is fast. It&amp;rsquo;s precise. But it isn&amp;rsquo;t magic.&#xA;Since it&amp;rsquo;s line-of-sight, your placement has to be spot on. If a lamp is off by just a few degrees, you&amp;rsquo;re back to square one with a cold spot.&#xA;Then there&amp;rsquo;s the power side of things. If you&amp;rsquo;re stuffing a bunch of high-wattage lamps into one kiln, your electrical panel is going to feel it. You&amp;rsquo;ve got to make sure your wiring can handle the load, or you&amp;rsquo;ll be tripping breakers right in the middle of a cycle. And please, don&amp;rsquo;t forget the shielding. Nobody wants an outer kiln shell that&amp;rsquo;s hot enough to burn an operator&amp;rsquo;s hand.&lt;/p&gt;</description>
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